Even before the season “dry” I knew, that it would be nice to use the rain and not just let the rainwater to the water, resp. to the channel. Natural lakes at that time were not so IN and there were only a few companies to create a pond. I had a budget processed by the company, but the investment of hundreds of thousands was beyond our means. I decided to go to the pond of my own “amateur” silami. Seven years ago, I created the first pond near our family house. A few years later his second at our family pension. In this article, I would like to share with you my amateur experience, pioneer of capturing rainfall in a garden pond.
How to start or what is needed?
Don't go into the water without money. Expect an investment of tens of thousands of crowns, depending on the size of the water surface and design elements (stairs, feel, stony dam,…)
No permit is required for a water area of up to 40 m2. It is necessary to buy a pond foil so that the water does not soak up and can be cleaned (strong: 1-1,5mm), the menu is black or green. I bought the foil as a whole (welded in two meter strips) via eshop. In order not to damage the pond foil, it is good to place geotextiles under it (weight 300g). Geotextiles are also suitable under the plant zone, where there is a duck above it. When calculating the size of the foil area, keep in mind the sides of the bathing zone. I recommend rounding up for the calculation (to an even number). A duckling is suitable for aquatic plants (building aggregate fraction 16-22 mm ). The bathing area is suitable framed with beech wood. With a handy digger, you can forge a pond in one day, even with the transport of material.
Here we go
Plan the size of the pond, our bathing area in the pond is 18m2 ( depth 2.20 m (I recommend depth over 2 metry, deep means pure), long 6 m (to swim a little) and wide 3 meter. The other plant zone has an area of 32 square meters. It is not for a small sketch, including where the water flows into the pond and where it flows out (where will be the zero point), viz. photo. It is also good to reckon with that, if you want to clean the pond with an electric pump and filters.
Unload the dredging area and plan where to dig with the dirt and stones. There will be a lot of clay. It can be used, for example, on the dam of a pond (if you have sloping terrain) or give to friends, who are building in the area and need to level the garden. Keep the stones somewhere nearby, will be useful for adjusting the perimeter of the pond.
Dredging takes all day, the sides of the excavation of the bathing zone should be straight vertical. If the sides of the block are not straight, align with a spade or add wet clay back to the holes created. The nicer the sides, this will place the foil better and make the wooden frame fit better. But nothing happens, when the shore breaks. Hold, the frame will need to be supported by a board at this point. The bottom may be slightly sloping, resp. the lowest point is good for the location of the pump.
Stretch the geotextile and foil as soon as possible after excavation. First, groundwater will soon appear. Second, when it rains, the parties may collapse. You stretch the geotextiles, belt next to the belt, both in the bathing zone and in the plant zone. You will need helpers to stretch the foil. The film is difficult to handle. It bends in the corners of the bathing part and it does not look good aesthetically. When the pond is full, but he will not see it. Do not cut the foil overlap, it will come in handy when forming the dam of the pond and then it will hide under the ground. Check the lowest point of the pond well (zero point). If the foil will be lower in another place, the level of the pond will not reach the zero point and the water from the pond will flow away at a different place than you want. You will not reach the desired level above the frame!
Prepare a drain from the gutters, so that you can start filling the pond right from the first rain, or release from other sources (stream, water supply system, firefighters).The sooner the better, see possible, however, groundwater.
Measure the length of oak planks for the frame. I used a length of 3m and a width ???, thickness??? The plank frame sits on the edge of the bathing area, so it is a little bigger than a hole in the ground. To make the frame look handsome, attach another board to it to create a T-shape. There will be a duck up to the height of the letter T.
Place the geotextile on the foil at the plant zone of the pond and attach it to the bottom of the frame, so that the duck does not fall into the bathing zone.
Then spread the duck evenly on the geotextile, at most 10 cm, where the plants will be. Elsewhere and less, enough as decoration and to cover the geotextile. In the project, it is therefore necessary to take into account the minimum level above the bathing zone 10 cm.
When you have soaked water for plants, you can start betting. Aquatic plants can be found by streams and around ponds. I belong for example (cancerous, irises, blatouch,sedge,… ). Later, you can tune the terrace design elements, entrance by means of nested steps, access to the garden, waterfall, wooden trough instead of gutters.
Tips in conclusion
– use all gutters from the roof, if the pond is full, it is possible to fill the tanks in the vicinity and in summer without rain to pump water into the pond without rain
– at the eaves you can have a raincoat barrel and a garden drain hose from it to the pond.
– Cleaning bacteria are always needed to sprinkle in the spring (water above 10C) to start the self-cleaning process in the pond. There are more and more manufacturers of bacteria, according to experience, it is necessary to test the products, which works for you. Bacteria need to be dosed throughout the bathing period.
– frequent use of the pool net to take the leaves out of the surface before they sink to the bottom equals a clean pond even in a few years.
Praise from his wife and year-round bathing, in the summer to cool off, in winter hardening.